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Fred Lum/The Globe and Mail
There’s a mosaic of colour behind the sneeze guard: jerk crab, sunburn-pink; oxtail that’s almost black in its gravy; a pile of curry chicken as yellow as a cartoon lighting bolt.
The food writer Suresh Doss sizes up the offerings at this walk-in Jamaican restaurant in Brampton, Ont., thinks about it for a minute, and orders one of everything, pretty much. (What he doesn’t get, like a red fish with its head on, he wants to know all about.)