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This bacon-laced, umami-rich Syrah is why I love wine from high-altitude California vineyards In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends Halcón s delicious $32 Syrah FacebookTwitterEmail Welcome to Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she every Wednesday. Syrah is a meat lover’s wine. When made in a certain style, it can seem to approach the pinnacle of deep, savory, umami-packed flavors: bacon fat, black pepper, salumi, olives. The trick of a truly great Syrah, though, is that it can balance those intense, meaty notes with bright, refreshing acidity (think of chimichurri sprinkled on a grilled ribeye) and more delicate, floral nuances. Syrah’s most famous iterations, from areas of France’s Northern Rhone Valley like Cote-Rotie, often mingle a heady black-pepper aroma with lavender and violets.

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