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Even in a state known for wine innovation and a willingness to embrace new fads, it was a quirky idea: aging bottles of wine at the bottom of the ocean, about a mile off Santa Barbara. But that is exactly what the four founders of Ocean Fathoms were doing. The company filled iron cages the size of washing machines with wines that sell in the $70 to $200 range, and lowered the bottles into the Pacific to a depth of about 70 feet. A year later, this “truly remarkable” wine, transformed by the “patented ocean aging process,” as the company’s marketing pitch says, was pulled up from the “sea cellar,” and one of the owners told me the going rate was $350 a bottle.

United statesSanta ynezSanta barbara countyBentrock chardonayEmanuele azzarettoCote memoriusJohn tilsonAndrew waterhouseDas williamsSanta barbaraJacques cousteauMike lopezRajat parrCoastal commissionCalifornia coastal commissionSurfrider foundation