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The stars focus on fine dining, mostly upscale restaurants with tasting menus that skew pricey. Michelin has another ranking, the Bib Gourmand list, that focuses on more casual restaurants. The tire company began awarding stars to Chicago restaurants in 2011, and the guide is also in other major markets, including New York, Washington, D.C., and LA. Michelin last announced stars for Chicago in September 2019, and that list contained 25 restaurants. Since then, a trio of starred Chicago restaurants have closed: Band of Bohemia, Blackbird, and Everest. Chefs from around the world covet the stars, embracing the notion that the 95-year-old rankings represent the pinnacle of culinary achievement. However, the COVID-19 pandemic led many municipalities to shut down indoor dining for long stretches of time. That complicated the jobs of Michelin inspectors, anonymous agents who visit and evaluate restaurants, and pushed Michelin to develop pandemic policies. For example, restaurants that

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