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A New Wave of Female Designers Are Changing Menswear as We Know It

Type keyword(s) to search Every product on this page was chosen by a Harper s BAZAAR editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. A New Wave of Female Designers Are Changing Menswear as We Know It Grace Wales Bonner, Priya Ahluwalia, Emily Adams Bode, and Bianca Saunders are designing clothes that aren t just for men. By Alison S. Cohn and Photographs by Emmanuel Sanchez-Monsalve; Styling by Milton Dixon III Apr 13, 2021 EMMANUEL SANCHEZ-MONSALVE With its tweeds, ties, pocket squares, and often arcane rules about everything from label shapes to the appropriate weight for shirt fabric, the world of menswear has been slow to embrace change. It wasn’t until 2017 that Emily Adams Bode became the first female designer to present a menswear collection at New York Fashion Week. She adhered to parts of the conventional male dress code while eschewing its fussiness, presenting tailored options made from upcycled quilts and finished

Read This Before You Decide to Work In Fashion

Words: Eugene Rabkin Highsnobiety Q1 is the latest in a series of quarterly insight weeks dedicated to the business behind youth culture and what makes our market tick. Head over to our Insights hub to see the full series. In 1999, The New Yorker released one of its most iconic articles ever published. In “Don’t Eat Before Reading This,” the late chef Anthony Bourdain spilled trade secrets of the restaurant industry. In doing so he poetically painted a picture of what it’s really like being a chef, to those who rarely get a glimpse behind the scenes. In this FRONTPAGE feature, veteran fashion writer and critic Eugene Rabkin takes a similar approach. As our industry has become increasingly global, saturated, and polarized, those observing it think they fully understand what the industry has become, they rarely do.

Turmoil Continues for the Artisans Behind Italian Fashion

Turmoil Continues for the Artisans Behind Italian Fashion
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Meet The Cool Kids of Couture: Area NYC, SR Studio LA and Yuima Nakazato

  And we haven’t even mentioned the clothes. For their inaugural collection, the designers wanted to go beyond the traditional definition of couture to consider how “ancient civilisations and tribes from northern China to South Africa had their own way of body adornment, informed by their values and religion,” says Panszczyk. Some pieces of the collection only 14 looks in total featured tubular forms reminiscent of Mayan drawings, or perhaps swirling exoskeletons, wrapped in thousands of Swarovski crystals in an ombré pattern. In person, they are surprisingly soft to the touch. “It was such a challenge to figure out how to make the padding soft, because usually dense embroidery becomes very solid, like stone,” says Panszczyk. As a solution, hand- moulded foam was wrapped with crystals, but that left the problem of the crystals fanning out and leaving gaps along the curves. Adds Fogg: “There was so much math involved. Sometimes you can’t even know how the end produc

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