February 10, 2021 |
Surfing
Aging is a slow, steady, continuous, and adaptive process of physiological deterioration. So, how can surfers adapt to the different life stages?
We can t - and never will be able to - stop the passage of time.
Life is a one-off golden opportunity that we should cherish every time we wake up in the morning.
When we re young, we don t care about age and aging. It s not a problem, and it has never been a thing we had to cope with.
And that s fine. It s exploration time. It s a time to chase our limits, to fail dramatically, and to succeed in experimenting.