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Save this story for later. Not all debuts are created equal, but the launch of Daniel Del Core’s new label was impressive. Even more remarkable was the fact that, in these difficult times, a young designer like him has been given the opportunity to build his own house from scratch. Del Core’s was the only show staged physically during this digitally driven Milan season, attended by a small, COVID-tested audience. The location was unprecedented: Cittadella degli Archivi is a compound of anonymous administrative buildings where the municipality of Milan’s archives are stored in the middle of a remote, run-down area never before used for public purposes. It made for a stark contrast with the collection’s theatrics; these were outlandish, couture-inflected creations, inspired by sci-fi, mutant glamour, fungi, mold, and bioluminescence.

United statesFrance generalBeth dittoAlexander mcqueenRoberto capucciNeri oxmanFlorence welchLana del reyDakota fanningZuhair muradAlessandro micheleMatter groupDolce gabbanaDaniel del coreMilan based del coreMediated matter group