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This story is published in partnership with Life & Thyme. Jon Yao got off to a prodigious start in the limelight. In 2016, his parents leased a place in a strip mall in Santa Monica with the intention of creating a fast-casual, lunchbox joint for UCLA students. Instead, Yao then 25 years old took it over and opened his restaurant, Kato, which immediately drew attention for its ambitious and photogenic plates, like a buttermilk pudding adorned with rose ice and smoked hamachi with scallion oil. Squeezed into a 970-square-foot space with a smart tasting menu, it was heralded as a broadly Asian restaurant with Taiwanese, Chinese, Californian and Japanese influences. It was still representative of who I am, but less focused, he says. Halfway through, I served my mom s steamed fish, and it was well-received by our guests. That gave me confidence in the flavors of my childhood.

New yorkUnited statesPingdong xianRepublic ofT ai peiSanta monicaSan franciscoSan gabriel valleyLos angelesSanta barbaraJon yaoLos angeleKato antonio diazAntonio diazTaiwanese hakkaWorld war