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Thoughtful, complex flavor combinations at the Hamilton Inn (Dining out review)
Posted May 13, 2021
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Hamilton, N.Y. We expected to slice meat from the bone for the lamb shank entrée at Hamilton Inn, but the kitchen did the work for us. Slow-roasted in a tomato-based sauce, the simply-seasoned meat lacked the signature gamey or grassy flavor, absorbing the brightness of the red sauce. The braising broke down the sinewy texture of the meat, rendering delicate slices of meat layers over chantilly potatoes and broccoli rabe.
The tomato-based sauce was offered a bright balance to the buttery potatoes and gave new life to the wilted rabe, which lacked the signature bitter flavor commonly found in the green.