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The capital of the United Arab Emirates has come a long way from its pearling town roots. With a magnificent outpost of the Louvre, head-turning Islamic architecture, and a new cultural park sited on Abu Dhabi’s original settlement, there is plenty here for visitors to admire — and that’s before they even venture into the fantastical desert on the city’s doorstep. The main swimming pool at Qasr al Sarab, Anantara’s desert resort on the edge of the Rub’ al Khali. It was the desert that brought me to Abu Dhabi. Specifically, it was a photograph that came over my desk a decade ago of an impossibly picturesque Arabian fortress nestled amid great red dunes at the edge of the Rub’ al Khali, the world’s largest uninterrupted expanse of sand. The caption identified this vision as Qasr Al Sarab — “Palace of Mirages” — which, in fact, was not a fortress at all but rather a newly built resort designed to emulate one: a stately confec

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