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The worn wooden tables on the second-floor balcony of the Last Kind Words Saloon offer the best vantage point, at least from a people-watching perspective. The sight lines down into the tall, busy bar and restaurant are unobstructed, and the clatter from below rises to the tin roof like a light fog. From up here, you can take in the many details of the space: the hanging antlers, the long underlit bar, and every inch of the faded off-white wallpaper that runs from corner to corner. More noticeable, though, are the dusty customers who blow in from various entry points, either emerging through the nearby buffet (called simply the 1849) and banquet room or by way of the heavy doors that lead to the sunny (

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