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Standfirst: Scots dairies are beating the French – and others - at their own game to become big cheeses on the international stage. Lined up in a dairy storeroom near Anstruther in the East Neuk of Fife is row upon row of what Jane Stewart affectionately refers to as the ‘babies’. “It’s a slow process – nine months. It is a bit like having a baby; it’s a long labour but it’s worth the wait,” she says. “Because at the end of the nine months we have these babies in the cheese store looking for a new home.” Slowly maturing inside the dairy’s storeroom, overlooking the Firth of Forth and encircled by lush meadows where the farm’s dairy herd graze, is the next generation of the farm’s award-winning cheeses.