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“It’s not always easy to figure out which potatoes to use for what,” writes Deborah Madison in Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Some 25 years after the book was published, those words still ring true, especially when you consider the range of conventional and heirloom potato varieties available at supermarkets and farm stands. The best potatoes for roasting, baking, mashing, and frying aren’t always interchangeable.

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