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It is 236 years since Arthur Phillip, a British naval officer who became the first Governor of New South Wales, landed in Australia with the brief of founding a convict settlement there. With him on the voyage from the Cape of Good Hope came orange and lemon seeds and seedlings, as well as cuttings of vines that were planted in his Sydney garden. Like Phillip, who returned to England in 1792 needing treatment for kidney stones, those early vines did not exactly flourish in Sydney’s hot climate.

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