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Why a celebrated local chef is pivoting and joining a growing movement. By Timothy Malcolm 2/26/2021 at 6:00am Published in the December 2020 issue of Houstonia Jonny Rhodes has had the kind of success a first-time restaurant owner could only dream of having. In July 2018 he opened Indigo, a 13-seat tasting menu restaurant set in Houston’s Northline neighborhood, which features dishes based on the survival of Black people and Indigenous Americans over centuries of oppression. While serving multiple-course meals, he tells stories about slavery, structural racism, and deep and ongoing American prejudice. Indigo has been a phenomenon, showing up on national best-new-restaurant lists while winning Rhodes a Rising Star Chef nomination for the 2019 James Beard awards. In late 2019

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