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To say now is an unprecedented time for Napa Valley’s wine industry is to repeat what is perhaps the year’s most ubiquitous understatement. News broke in early 2020 that wine consumption had declined slightly in the United States in 2019, the first dip of its kind in a quarter-century. It came as something of a blow even to Napa Valley’s wine industry, whose premium reputation typically insulates it from general market volatility. But the previous years’ harvest, in 2018, had produced a wine grape crop more than a third larger than expected across the North Bay. Of both oversupply and a slight drop in demand, a grape glut was born, depressing market prices for both bulk wine and grapes across California, according to Glenn Proctor, partner at Ciatti Company, a bulk wine and grape brokerage firm. The state’s crush report, released early this year, listed the average price for a ton of Napa Valley grapes as close to $5,800 — a level not reflective of tru

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