If you’re fortunate enough to have a reason to reach for a bottle of Champagne these days a time when the very thought of celebrating remains complicated by world events you best make it count. But if the world of wine seems baffling (and it definitely can be), Champagne, with its high price tag and even higher expectations, is pure, unfiltered intimidation. The famed French wine region is synonymous with excess, marketing fluff, and conspicuous consumption things we could all do with a bit less of right now. But not all Champagne is this way. There is, in fact, a different kind of Champagne, delicious sparkling wine from that same hallowed ground, made of humbler stuff yet no less compelling, and every bit as celebratory.