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The complementary bottle of Jackson Hole Airport’s hand sanitizer was a masterpiece of sanitizer chic, not dissimilar to Chanel’s classic parfumerie flask. I clutched it as if it were an amulet before boarding the first segment of my flight to St. Joe, Arkansas, population 125, where I would join my family to float America’s First National River, the Buffalo. I was giddy with excitement, weighed down with masks, scarves, sanitizing wipes and a hefty history of northern Arkansas and the Buffalo National River. Did you know that St. Joe was originally called Monkey Run? No, neither did I.

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