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What s Worth a 38-Hour Airplane Marathon? A Cruise to Magical Raja Ampat. Illustrations by Konstantin Kakanias, Klara Glowczewska © Konstantin Kakanias Put this Indonesian archipelago on your bucket list: 1,400 species of fish, 600 types of coral, and all the luxuries of the small ship Aqua Blu. “Arrival is never easy,” said Serge Aliba, the Aqua Blu’s ­Lebanese-born acting cruise director soon after we boarded the ship in Sorong. To get to this ramshackle tropical port city, at the tip of the Bird’s Head Peninsula in the eastern Indonesian province of West Papua, I had to endure (in pre-pandemic January 2020) a 16-and-a-half-hour flight from New York to Hong Kong; a five-hour airport layover; a four-and-a-half-hour flight to Jakarta; an eight-hour layover; and a four-hour flight to Sorong. (“So wrong,” a British friend who had traveled here earlier had quipped.)

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