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Costa da Morte: Spanish coast s sinister name masks its calming beauty
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Spain s Coast of Death has a calming beauty
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Lonely beaches reminded Paul of Cornwall
At a waterside restaurant on the Costa da Morte, in the far north-west corner of the Iberian Peninsula, I sat in the shade of a palm tree listening to the plish-plash of the waves as I made my way through a plate of scallops and a glass or two, or three, of apple-fresh albariño. Mine was one of just three tables for lunch. Across the water, a fishing boat chugged into Corme harbour. It was hard to know whether this sense of easeful quiet was normal, “new normal” or quite uncharacteristic: either way, it was doing me good.