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A view of prayer flags and the Paro dzong, or fortress, in Paro, Bhutan. Image by Emma Johnson. Bhutan, 2019.
The fire popped loudly, startling the people standing nearby. It was crowded at the cremation ground next to the river, just outside downtown Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. It s the spring of 2018. Men in dark ghos with shiny dress shoes and women in muted but elaborate kiras mingled around the fires, catching up. Elaborate, colorful offerings of food and flowers decorated the table in front of the pyre. The fire would burn for many hours as it turned the skin and bones of my colleague s father into ash.