English Harbour in Antigua
Credit: Getty
It’s not overindulging on rum cocktails that has us stumbling around looking for our rooms on our first night at the Inn at English Harbour in Antigua, to the accompaniment of a mocking cacophony of tree frogs. Honest, we had just one, having realised – at first sip – that there is madness in the measures. It is, rather, the absolute and disorienting darkness that envelops the island once the sun sinks beneath the horizon. There is no gradual lessening of daylight here, no hazy in-between. From its clear blue, the sky blazes, all pink-gold drama; by 6pm, it is black as pitch.