So, this is the adriatic sea. Over the horizon is the long outstretched boot of italy. And over that way are the small coves and marinas of little montenegro. The historic towns along this coastline seem unspoiled, but dont be fooled. The stretch has had billions of euros poured in since the country gained independence from serbia almost 20 years aGo luxury flats and hotels, homes for superyachts, and enormous infrastructure projects. But there is a colourful Old Montenegro that some say is at risk of being forGotten. Could the old balkan Sea Stories of pirates and merchants, sailors and fishermen be replaced with a glitzy new chrome plated future . There are some people who are trying to stop that from happening. From the explorers telling old stories with new tech. Laughter. That was amazing we are trying actually to. To discover all the story behind them. To the drivers of these beautiful but treacherous mountain roads. Oh, my Gosh why doesnt he move over . youre Good she gasps. He was Going so fast. See, you. Now, your tolerance, building up. And the locals in love with montenegro� s maritime show stopper. Off limits to all but the richest visitors. He shouts. Go, Go, GoGo, Go pull you, a little bit. Now you. Its me and andrea against a bunch of hardened montenegrin fishermen. And you know what . Were not losing 0k. Come on. Oh, shes catching up we cant let this Old Lady Beat us. No, no laughter. Faster will be a crash no dont crash actually, we are stronger than guys. Yes. As long as we dont come last, i dont care. Were in Kotor Bay one of a kind World Heritage Landscape ringed by historic towns and villages. Those fishermen theyre so fast how are they so fast . my Arm Muscles are burning. You will be stronger. We are not last hey laughter. The contestants here all live on the banks of the bay and once a year Come Togetherfor A race and a fish supper. I feel like ive crashed someone� s family gathering. Yes, everything you see, its. Yeah. Like at home. Domestic atmosphere. I love it, i love it. Its easier with the hands. With the hands . 0h. You just. Like this and you try with the hands. You dont need them both. Ah thats where im Going wrong. Fish is eating with the hands. Right. Oh, yeah. I see youre eating with your hands, too. Tell me about your family. My mother was winner, but before. Your mum won yes. Wow when she was young, she liked this. Also, father, after. And your dad won it as well . Yes. And now me and my son are here. Great . After the years. Sorry we didnt win it this year. But we will do next year. 0k~ next year, ill be in training. You will come back. So, whats it like growing up here . Very its a small place, but for. Also for the houses and everything, we try to keep everything like it was. We are not a lot of us, stay here, from old families. You can count us on fingers. But the areas changing. Further along the bay, the Superyacht Marina of Porto Montenegro is attracting high rollers from all over the world. Work started almost as soon as independence was declared in 2006. To this day, it continues to expand. I think its quite glitzy. It reminds me of dubai. Yes. Yes, its a little bit glitzy, but from that side of the bay, its ok. They needed something like that. We have here tradition and they make now Porto Montenegro. For me, its ok. Very nice restaurants. Also, you have here to see something. Some other face of montenegro. So, old and new. As the afternoon wears on, it feels like there are awards for everyone. Even andreas presented with her own camellia even though we came second to last so, inevitably, im summoned to the top table too. Thank you very much, everyone, for having us, for allowing us to compete in your camellia trophy. It was such a fantastic event and it was really great that everyone was so welcoming and included us, and let us enjoy and be part of your local traditions. So, thank you. Thank you very much. So, this bay is full of shipwrecks. Were talking roman carGo ships, venetian merchant ships, planes and submarines from the first and second world war. If you can dive and youre interested in history, these here are rich waters. Hi, darko. Welcome. Thank you. Please. Darko kovacevic has been exploring them and mapping their contents. He and his team at the university are scanning the many wrecks in the bay, One By one, and creating an online catalogue for people to swim around in virtual reality. Darko, why is this so important . Digitisation of the shipwrecks is giving the ability to the community to really first time see the wrecks that they were not able to see, if they are not divers. Most of the community, they are not divers the kids and elder people etc. Thank you. Early the following morning, we head out into the bay to see these sights in real life. Im a relative novice at wreck diving, so darko has brought his team to look after me. Signal me, please. 100 bar. 50 bar. At 50 bar. 50. Ok. I think this is my first wreck dive, actually. First wreck dive, yeah. Because most wrecks arent 18m, right . Its not scary. Darko, whats the visibility like . It should be up to 20m. Up to 20m . Yesterday was quite clear, so i believe we will be able to see the whole wreck. Darko is taking me to see a yuGoslav Patrol Boat sunk during a naval exercise in 1983. Its become one of the most popular wrecks to dive in montenegro. You can swim through the hole left by the grenade blast, and the sponges growing on it make it a colourful, otherworldly experience. Wow that was amazing the water was so blue. Yeah, it was nice visibility. Really nice. The Patrol Boats one of the more modern relics down there. But the next Thing Darko wants to show me is much more ancient a recent discovery made only last year. So, now we are at the site with the Roof Tiles. We suspect that the tiles are originating from roman to medieval period, when the development within the bay was flourishing. So, this site might be correlated with the shipwreck which is on the entrance of this bay. The Roof Tiles are already scanned and now the team is working to see if they can link them to a roman vessel found in deeper waters. Darko, there were so many tiles down there. Well, its a very interesting site. I dont believe that thats a wreck, but most likely, the weather was very heavy and someone was throwing those tiles overboard to make the vessel lighter, so he can escape. But its wonderful to have the backstory, to know the history behind it. Yeah, i think so. We are trying, actually, to discover all the story behind and then to give it behind and then to give it to our colleagues in the dive to our colleagues in the dive centres, so they can tell centres, so they can tell the story to the tourists. The story to the tourists. I love what darko i love what darko and his team are doing. And his team are doing. Its all about its all about generating enthusiasm. Generating enthusiasm. And if they can convince and if they can convince everyone else that this everyone else that this is worth preserving, is worth preserving, we stand a chance of we stand a chance of saving this so everyone saving this so everyone else can see it too. Else can see it too. This may be an historic stretch of coastline, but its modernised rapidly since independence in 2006, and not only in kotor, which opened its new Cable Car last year. Billion euro developments at Porto Montenegro, Lustica Bay and Porto Novi Have attracted the super rich and their yachts. Some say this is the 21st centurys answer to the french riviera. Well, if youre trying to build some infrastructure for these high end newcomers, well, you can see for yourself mountains and valleys everywhere. But id heard some of the countrys most difficult roads are often the most beautiful and wanted to take a look. She laughs. Need a ride . Yes. I love it check it out. 0k. Its been a while since ive driven a manual car. Janko scepanovic is my guide. Hes brought his vintage yuGo. I need two hands one thing you should know, and this may be the most crucial thing, this thing have stopping. Like, need stopping space of one train. So, when you press the brake. 0ne Train . yeah, when you press the brake, count. You need, like, a few metres until the yuGo stops. Right. So, no tailgating . No. YuGos were so popular here in the 1980s, when the country was part of yuGoslavia, that they became something of a national symbol. Nope. Sorry. Yeah, were Good. As i stall now we just need a little bit of practice Go ahead. Put the hammer down, billy. They laugh. Here we Go so, tell me about the yuGo. Part of yuGoslavian heritage. It was. In socialism, nothing was too flashy, lets say. Right. Like, they need the car that was cheap to buy. Affordable, too. Oh, Gosh. I shouldnt have done that. No, youre Good. Affordable to everyone. Right. And easy to repair. So, you have this prime example of the. Every single part of this carwas, like, produced and assembled in yuGoslavia. Right. And is it easy to get parts for this now . No, no. The stretch im approaching is notorious. The Kotor Serpentine has 25 switchbacks with a precipitous drop down one side. Kotor was, like, super connected by the sea for the whole world. But for inlands, this road, with a little road next to this, was the only connection with the continental part of the world. So, now were Going to the left side. Gears grind. Turning left. This is mandatory. Oh, my God. To crunch the gears yeah. So, what are the tips for driving this road . Lock your eyes on the horizontal. Hope for the best. Yeah. Sorry, sorry. 0ops. So, is everyone happy about this new highway . Uh, i guess. Im happy. Do you think. You know, people will be missing out on the adventure . Of course. Every time when im not in a rush, i try to take this one because its not only adventure, its, like, experience. Which means, for the time being, the beaches are open to all. Dragana runs a Guest House nearby and has been front and centre of a campaign to get the island reopened to the public. Two of my aunties are born on Sveti Stefan. They were born there . yes. Their mother, danica, was a cook in Sveti Stefan. Many families here has members of their families who are born on Sveti Stefan. As you know, on the end of 1950s, the families was moved out from their houses. And after few years, when Sveti Stefan started to work as a hotel, they come back to work on the island and to serve tourists in their own houses. But, you know, that was a period when they thought that they do something very important and Good for the community, for the state, then yuGoslavia. Now the grandsons and daughters cannot enter the island. Its forbidden to just to enter and to. To see the island. The bell yes. Church bell. Yes, church bells. That is the church alexander nevsky. After that is Going church Sveti Stefan, arhidakon Sveti Stefan. Two churches. Can local people Go to these churches . You know, its, for us, allowed when its some, um. Ceremonies. A few times in a year. And after the liturgy, we have to Go back. Security is on the way. You have only one footpath. You cannot Go left. You cannot Go right. Theyll show you how you can. And you Go out. You know, we feel very bad. What do you hope for the future of Sveti Stefan . Maybe Government of montenegro can open the island, partly as a hotel, partly as a Museum Town that the tourists can come, can pay for the entrance, but they will have even one street, which will be Going to talk the historical story to the tourists. The tourists know where they come, what is the meaning of the island, how huge a history the island has, and the people who used to live there. But theres one way you can get a pretty Good view of the island, and for that, Youll Need to take to the skies. Hopefully, we can get a birds Eye View of Sveti Stefan. Seeing we Cant Access it for real, id like to see it from the top, and get as close as i can. When we start, we should make a few steps forward. That moment, youll pull the glider above head. When the glider be overhead, i will tell you, run and we should keep running all the time until the edge. Just keep running. Yeah. Until it falls away . Yeah. I see youre a very sporty girl. It is very easy. She shrieks. Oh, my God whoa she laughs. Look at this its amazing. Wow she yelps. I dont like the turbulence. Wow. Look, theres a swimming pool. Looks a bit murky. Wow. We can see the Church Look at all these little villas. Isnt it beautiful . Sveti stefan looks so amazing from up here. I can really see why they charge a pretty packet to stay there. You can also see the privacy it offers people. But in offering that at a premium, theres a cultural landmark lost, not just to montenegrins, but to All Of Us who want to come and see it. There we Go. We landed On The Beach at Sveti Stefan can you believe it . The countrys transforming, thanks in part to lots of new wealth arriving on its shores. But the people ive met here have blown me away with their affection for the Old Montenegro, quirks and all. Theyve Got so much determination to make sure the things that make this place special arent lost in the massive changes now under way. And you know what . I think they might just stand a chance. For part two of the weekend, a thundery low sitting across england and wales, generating Heavy Rain and also some thundery downpours through the afternoon. Further north, the more dry it will be, scotland and northern ireland, but quite a bit of cloud. Cooler than of late, North Westerly winds starting to set in across the North West, whereas low pressure means warm and humid air. The Weather Front across southern scotland, North East england, through North West england, wales and the south west, could bring persistent Heavy Rain. Further east, the sunshine could trigger some heavy thundery downpours. Cloud in scotland and northern ireland, winds in from the North West. Cooler across the north than the last few days, but still fairly humid with some warmth across england and wales, especially the east. Thunderstorms this evening across the south east. The Weather Front in the west pushing eastwards. A legacy of cloud across large parts of england and wales, keeping temperatures up, not falling below 11 12, but it will be chilly in scotland and northern ireland, under clearer skies. Monday, in between weather systems, High Pressurejust coming in to turn things drier. A bit of Cloud And Rain across eastern areas, the Weather Front eventually into the north sea. Plenty of sunshine in england and wales, but more cloudy skies in scotland and northern ireland, with rain in western scotland. A cooler and fresher day across the board, mid to high teens. Big changes from tuesday, this area of low pressure moving down from the north, parking itself across northern scotland, into the norwegian sea. That will open the floodgates to an arctic north North Westerly wind, turning much cooler for all areas on tuesday. The Cold Front spreading southwards, squally rain. Behind it, brightening up, plenty of sunshine but blustery showers as well, they may be heavy and thundery across the North West. A windy and blustery day especially across the North East. Cold and windy with sunshine and showers. Temperatures in the low teens in the north, the high teens further south. It stays pretty chilly for the time of year for the upcoming week. It will be cold at night, most showers in the north and west, staying drier the further south and east. This is bbc news. 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